No car? No problem!
A few years ago, I realized I was one of the few people in the US (and here in Stockholm) who doesn't have a driver's license. It's never really prevented me from doing what I want. I lived in Philadelphia until I was 22 and used public transportation nearly every day (despite everyone's complaints about SEPTA). In Richmond, Virginia, not having a license was sometimes a problem but usually there was some friend who'd help or I'd just take taxis. In Stockholm, for the most part, we have a pretty reliable public transportation network so driving just never seems like it's worth the hassle.
I thought not having a license might prevent Tord and me from being able to travel freely in Italy. I knew the train connections to major cities wouldn't be a problem but I wasn't certain how it would be traveling to smaller cities and regions. Well, thanks to researching everyhing in advance, we found out about how many local and regional trains we could take across Italy. So start with checking out all your destinations and connections at Trenitalia. The ticket prices are cheap and can either be purchased online or at the stations. We usually just wait until we're in Italy and purchase tickets since most stations in larger cities have multi-language ticket machines. In a small town? No problem. The station attendants will always help you. Start with a few pleasantries in Italian and that usually brings a smile and breaks the ice.
There are plenty of bus connections between major cities and the countryside. Check out Lazzi and Sita for information on destinations. Sometimes you'll be able to catch local buses between neighboring major cities but the rides could be a bit long. You should also check out the Italian Tourist Board's website for more information on buses, ferries and regional train traffic.
If it's your first time, you might want to choose a small area of one region to explore. The first time Tord and I decided to explore Italy for more than just a long weekend, we selected Umbria as our region of choice. We found great flights to Rome with Lufthansa and then based our travel on the idea that we didn't want to spend more than three hours traveling between each city. We spent two days in Rome, took the train to Orvieto (an hour away) and then continued onwards to Arezzo and crossed the border into Tuscany for our final destination of Florence. Between each city, we spent no more than an hour on the train. It was perfect.
Looking for good hotels and bed-and-breakfasts? Check out Slow Travel Italy. I almost always use this site to check out accommodation reviews. It's also a good place to check out sample itineraries if you're feeling a bit lost. Their Trip Reports are a great starting point if you're an absolute beginner. You can even pick up a few useful Italian phrases while you're at it. Lonely Planet's Discover Italy section is also a good place to stop for more tips on where to go, what to see and what to bring with you. If youhave an iPhone, head to Travel DK for apps with great info on loads of destinations in Italy and around the world.
So what should you have with you when you go to Italy? If you're like me and you like taking long walks, then you must absolutely have a comfortable pair of walking shoes. I have relied on Keen hiking sandals for several years and they've been perfect for the all-day strolls my husband and I take.
Many hotels in Italy provide bicycles which can be borrowed or rented by guests. This gives you an excellent way to see the city at your own pace. If you're a novice to bicycling, you might not want to try this in Rome or Milano. But in cities like Ravenna, Parma, Cremona and Bologna, there are plenty of bicycle paths and the cities are flat enough for even the novice to comfortably enjoy a leisurely bicycle tour.
But don't think you can't get around in Italy without a car. It's easy and I have managed to do it every summer for the last five years. All you have to do is plan ahead and tell yourself there's always a solution.
